A December to Remember: Goa National Trekking Expedition 2012-2013

"The word GOA itself creates a panorama of vast blue sea flirting with long serine fine white sand, as if the bond is eternal, Portuguese style churches that are spread throughout the land, location specific  goan sea food, that’s again with remembrance of Portuguese connection , booze, that’s as diverse as country’s people”. This is the common view any traveler could have regardless of the nationality he/she is from. A thing that shouldn’t be forgotten here is, GOA is also a part of Western Ghats, which in turn , is one of the 2 bio diversity hotspots in India, another being Eastern Himalayas.

Many people have a perception, trekking and goa are antonyms. So, this is one such blog where I will be showcasing the experience which I had gone through for a week long trek in the month of December 2012.

It all began with a very elaborate planning that I started from July 2012, for the trek in December. Trek was organized by YHAI (Youth Hostel Association of India), International NGO, believes in saying  “wandering one gathers honey”, and spreads process of gathering knowledge by gaining real experiences with world, its people and nature. They conduct several trekking, mountaineering, nature study, family camping, sailing etc throughout the year with minimal budget. Online bookings for the trek will be opened as early as June. It’s better to plan trek and mode of travel or any YHAI related activity well in advance, so that you could get the choice of date.

My date of reporting was 21^st December 2012. Doesn’t it sound something peculiar??? When rest of the world was expecting a catastrophe of a kind which could wipe out this blue little globe out of this milky way, conversely,  I was one such say “careless” to get organized a trek for myself to GOA, even after watching movie “2012”. . . . .Ahh Enough!!! Let’s get back to some serious topic. Being a punekar, obviously my journey started from pune on 20^th dec. My ride “Goa Express” arrival to pune was at 4.45pm and my destination was Vasco. Please do remember that, any reliable and cheap means of transport to Goa in December will be high in demand. So, booking has to be done very well in advance. Calm and peaceful train journey ended at Vasco at 7.30AM, around right time. But reporting place for base camp was in campal, panaji. Goa has very good public bus transport. Ride from vasco to panaji will approximately take an hour. From panaji there are buses to campal every 2-3 minutes or just Rs 5. In campal, place to get down was at Sports Authority of Goa. Campal is a nice calm, clean, rich locality just beside Miramar beach.

Day1: Reporting

A minute walk from bus stop is base camp. Base camp is full of tents, about 50-60 I guess, in  a big ground beside Sports authority of Goa. After reporting to camp, all the formalities were completed and I was allotted my group number, that’s GT-7 and tent. Amazingly, I was the first one to occupy tent. Camp was bustling with activities from cyclists, family campers, sailors, trekkers etc. on the other side, in a corner it was kitchen, a place that makes everyone happy. As I stroll around camp, I could see campers from diverse age group, as young as 5 yr old to 80 yr old in active participation. Minute by minute added to clock, one by one GT-7 participants joined my tent. Totally about 12 campers will be assigned per tent. Seems like bit congested place, but it will help out in higher camps, when weather is cold. Campers in my tent had come from KA, CH, AP, and MH with experience in Himalayan trekking. 

On reporting day there won’t be any activity or in other words, we are free to roam all over the city. By day 1, many trekkers had reported to base camp. Base camp follows strict timings in breakfast, lunch and dinner servings. We are supposed carry own plates and mugs throughout the stay in base camp and higher camps. Whatever the food they gave, I found it to be tasty and plentiful. There is an activity after dinner, that’s campfire. YHAI is environment friendly NGO, so it’s a campfire without real fire and wood but with color bulbs around a tree. Anyone can showcase their talent by singing, storytelling etc . . . .

By 10PM, lights will be switched off in all tents. Only when the lights were off, we came to know all were sharing our tent with some more tent mates, mosquitoes. It’s wise to carry mosquito repellents.

DAY 2: Wall climbing, Rappelling, Acclimatization & Orientation

In the morning all trekkers from GT-7 of total 57 trekkers were told to assemble for warm up and exercise, followed by instructions on wall climbing and rappelling by professionals. Everyone got chance to test their Spiderman deep within them.

After breakfast, next task was a short trek in which we were supposed to carry some weight in a rug sack provided by them, so that we could get a feeling that ere were going to experience in following days. 

Short beach trek was in Miramar, just besides the youth hostel building. Beach was least crowded under bright sunny day. Sunscreen, full cap and lots of drinking water are must on beach trek. To feel sand and water, barefoot trek is advised. Miramar is not that famous beach but it’s wider like any other beach in goa.

On shore, some Dead Sea snakes were for some time a point of attraction. Those could have entangled to fisherman nets when pulled out of sea. A fisherman told there are some dolphins in the locality which are common at early morning. 

 Sea shells

 

Moving away from beach to a road lead us to a place called Donapaula. Donapaula is a popular tourist attraction frequented by tourists because of scenic view from the viewpoint. Even National Institute of Oceanography is present on the way. 

Full group was back in base camp before lunch time. Evening, camp leader and program director had a talk to team about the place, trekking routes, common mistakes, and awareness on wild animals. A group leader and Deputy Group leader were selected from the group based on their previous trekking experiences. Same evening we were told to deposit any extra luggage if we have so that it won’t be heavy for rest of the trek days starting from day 3.

Day 3: Mission begins [Mobor Beach to Benaulim Beach -12 kms]

By morning 7.30AM, the whole group GT-7 was ready for action that next 4 days they were going to face. Each one of were eager to taste what GOA had to offer. Lunch for the noon was given in base camp itself. For that a Tiffin box is must. From base camp, group was taken in a bus to Mobar beach (south goa) about 50 Kms from panaji or 1.5 hrs looong ride.

The very moment I entered the beach, it was a sudden blast of view, a terrible chemistry one could get and are in search for in goa. .  “Clear sky+ blue sea+ white sand+ cool breeze= speechless”. If anyone is in search for less crowded beach with all the chemistry mentioned above, I would easily suggest Mobar beach. 

 

Step by step barefoot walk along wet coastline directed towards next destination benaulim. It’s a continuous 12 kms trek in which you free to move at your own pace and will. Along the trek we got to see many Europeans enjoy getting tanned under sun, cycling, having a walk and jogging. Meanwhile I could snap some sea inhabitants such as colorful snails and starfish. Live snails are very common in this beach. 

Carrying enough drinking water won’t go in vain; one can refill them in lifeguard towers, but not to buy them in any shacks at high price. Had lunch somewhere under shade and again started moving towards camp. 

 

By the time I reached camp it was 2pm. The whole group was spread out with lots of gap on beach. So, many reported to benaulim camp at different time. There aren’t any markings to show direction towards camp. A lifeguard guided us to camp that was just 100 mtrs away from beach. Nobody is supposed to leave camp until head count says all have been reported. 

In evening, I spent some time swimming with some Europeans, played football with an English guy followed by sunset photography.

Benaulim camp is only such camp with concrete building, rest of the camps are of tent facility. Camp leader served dinner. A walk on the beach at night over cold sand was relaxing.

Day 4: Christmas [Benaulim to Velsao Beach -10 kms]

Morning when everyone was parching for tea, me and 2 other trekkers ran for a dip in sea. While we were enjoying warm sea, after few minutes, there was an amazing surprise that even money sometimes can’t buy for us. . 2 dolphins scouting for fish along the shore line. At first I had mistook them for shark, later we realized that what all of us saw was a rare glimpse of 2 dolphins near to camp. Unfortunately I didn’t carry camera at that time.

Soon after breakfast and getting packed . group started for next destination, that’s Velsao camp. 

In this part of beach trek again I could collect snaps of some more snails, sea shells, crabs, birds.

The day was hot compared to previous day. I and my friend after lunch took a nap for about an hour beside a shady side of fishing boat. It was really pleasant sleep under shade beside beach which I always wanted to have. 

Boat that gave me shelter, Jolly Boy

By the time I reached camp it was 5 pm, one of the last one to reach. Again sunset photography

started. 

It’s 25^th December in goa, Christmas day, but far from crazy goa crowd and streets. Moon was bright, even though not full moon; it created a powerful tide to lash its fury on hapless sand. This time again camp was just beside beach under coconut grove. 

 YHAI could have presented it better

Tents were less in number, fortunate or unfortunate; I couldn’t get any place inside. So, I opted to sleep outside under coconut trees, a risk never undertaken before. All could hear party music floating in air from faraway place. As we were told, next day would start very early and need to catch a train, most of them sneaked in their tents, some of them had a dance session in beach and I was sleeping under the mercy of coconut tree, bitter cold, morning with dew drops all over face, but I was not alone as some had followed my idea of sleeping outside tents. 

Day 5: In to the wild [Collem to Dudhsagar (10 kms) (Velsao to Collem by train)]

Morning at 4.30 AM, cold dew and breeze forced me to get out of sleep. I was amazed to see goan people at beach, still enjoying Christmas party, cooking chicken, boozing. Group finished breakfast as early as 5.30 AM and got ready with rug sacks and packed lunch at 6.30 AM. Day 5 plan was to reach collem by train and trek towards Dudhsagar camp. From velsao about 2 kms is cansaulim station, our boarding point for collem station. At 8:00AM vasco –kullem passenger train carried us away to collem and trek started at 9:00AM. 

Camp was in Bhagwan Mahavir wildlife sanctuary. Evergreen forest embedded by tall trees and lots of clean stream on the way. 

When some of my group trekkers and I were ahead, first we came across a diversion showing arrow towards Dudhsagar which was actually a jeep route. Another direction written by YHAI showed exactly opposite in direction. Unfortunately some of us ignored the direction written by YHAI assuming it to be some junk direction which in turn was an actual trekking route but proceed with jeep route. Road was pathetically dusty and near to railway track. This shortcut resulted in some us reaching camp as early as 2PM, where as other part of the group which took right trekking route, were able to reach camp around 3 PM onwards. I heard them saying about giant squirrels en route. 

Direction written clearly by me to avoid confusion for next batch

Camp was in shady place with tall trees around. Just about 100mtrs from camp is stream formed from Dudhsagar waterfall. Water was clean but very cold as it has passed under shade for very long distance. What else does a tired body need???. 

By late evening the whole team was in camp, tired. Dudhsagar station is visible from camp and also we saw trains passing beside rocky wall towards station.

Once it got dark, then only we realized there was no electricity supply to tents. Fortunately natural light from moon was of great help, campfire happened just under moonlight and some solar lamps. Camp is positioned in such a way that the train route surrounds us and echo of engine sound reverberates all around the hill.

Strong breeze even in that forest made us feel lively all through the night added with train noise one after another and I knew, on the other side of those hills laid an elegant, calm, slim, tall Dudhsagar falls awaiting for us.

Day 6: Dudhsagar Revisited [Dudhsagar to Caranzol (12 kms) (Via Dudhsagar waterfalls)]

There is a blog on Dudhsagar trip I made in July 2012 “http://for--your--eyes--only.blogspot.com/2012/08/dudhsagar-falls-trip-must-in-monsoon.html”.

Dudhsagar falls was in day 6 plan because it was on the way to caranzol camp. By morning 8:00 AM, group started marching towards falls under the shade of forest. This time its jeep route till some point, from then onwards its trek path till base of the falls. 

 

As it was not peak season for falls, water from top of the mountain till the base seemed too weak and slim. All of us wondered even though there was no rain or cloud, how could waterfall still survive? Pond like structures at base of falls tempt anyone for a swim but, area seems to be bit risky we clearly advised not to swim in Dudhsagar falls. A passing goods train became an object of surprise for snap. 

After spending some time, it was time to move on top of the bridge. Arrow marks guided us towards tracks, from there we started moving on tracks towards falls and came across 2 tandem tunnels (13 and 12) leading towards bridge. There are viewpoints to see falls; even one can get down under bridge. Utmost safety precaution has to be taken, as there is no even surface under. 

After tunnel 11 there is an old building with an arrow mark near entrance leading us to caranzol camp. From that point onwards it’s descending till noon. It’s highly advised to fill up all the water bottles in Dudhsagar falls itself, because there are no hardly any streams on the way to caranzol. 

There was small stream at lunch point from then onwards it’s full of thick forest, narrow path, slant surface and absolute silence. One of our trekker got to see a brown snake on the way. After about 2 hrs trek in jungle, I suddenly came across a big stream, on the other side it was written as welcome to caranzol camp. The stretch from Dudhsagar to caranzol camp was most enjoyable. This camp had fewer tents, put out in a patchy area. Stream was a perfect place for bath. Crystal clear water with floor of pebbles down, but very cold. 

Camp leader arranged for good food throughout our stay. Whenever if anyone complained of too much use of potatoes, camp leader used to say “jungle me baalu, kahane me aalu” [Bear in jungle, potatoes in food]... All camp leaders in all the camps we came across are very experienced people in trekking, mountaineering etc. Their past experiences are inspiration for any trekker. For a change we didn’t have campfire, lights were ON all night to avoid wild animals and we were instructed not to roam unnecessarily. Next day posed us a lengthy trek to nandaran camp.

Day 7: A walk in the park [Caranzol to Nandran (14 kms)]

Departure time from caranzol was at 9:00AM. All had enough time to reenergize ourselves. 2 trekkers from group called in quit due to tiredness and health issues. From this camp onwards it’s all about stamina to walk long distance. There are no hilly terrains nor thick forest to negotiate, its mud road until nandran. Streams are encountered only at start of trek, so better to refill bottles to full on the way as there aren’t any water sources on the way from then onwards.

For some stretch of trek we will return through same route when we had been to Dudhsagar trek 2 days ago. In that stretch there’s another place “devils canyon” about 0.5 km from main road. A small canyon formed of big rocks with deep water.

Proceeding further with the trek, there is diversion specifically towards nandaran, but no mention of arrow or name. In these kinds of situations, group leader will be of help. Most part of path towards nandran is surrounded by tall trees, full of shade, cool breeze. Surprisingly, we met nandaran camp leader on the way. A senior person with very vast experience in trekking all over India. 4 other trekkers and I reached nandaran as early as 2PM.

Nandran was once upon a time a village, now it’s been relocated for afforestation program. Still we could see dry farmland, wells, and coconut trees. 2 wells nearby are the only sources of water for all purposes. Again, it’s one such camp with no electricity with lot of tick problem. In surrounding areas you might find wild birds, as I got a chance to snap one. It was last evening of the trek, so campfire was bit lengthy that too under full moon. A sudden dip in temperature was felt all through night. It was the coldest night in total expedition. No thick blanket could save us from bitter breeze till morning.

Day 8: Long road to happy ending [Nandran to Tambdi Surla (15 kms) to base camp by bus]

It was expeditions last day that would end at temple named tambdi surla. GT-7 was ready by 9:00AM for their final trek to reach civilization again. First part of trek on day 8 will be negotiating thick dark jungle for about 2 hrs. 

Jungle trek will end up at the spot where a mud road is linked up to a village. There is only one stream we came across after that. Trekking ahead we started trekking on a tar road which some vehicles every now and then. To my experience, walk in forest with twists and turn is far easier than walking on tar road. 

A few minutes in to walking on tar road, feet and ankles hurt added with shoulder pain due to rug sack. By 11.30 AM another trekker and I were first to reach tambadi surla, a lord shiva temple of 13^th century AD by  goa-kadamba dynasty. A calm, peaceful place with stream in front of temple. Had lunch in nearby garden, slept for a while until all trekkers reached temple. Most trekker’s feet were swollen or had got blister. The expedition of 7 days informally ended at tambadi surla with lots of smile on all of our tanned faces. 

By 2.30PM bus that was supposed to carry us to base camp arrived on time and reached base camp around 4.30PM. In base camp, organizers warmly welcomed us for successfully completing expedition without any incidences. All the 57 in group had unforgettable 8 days, carried irreplaceable memories that would cherish for life time. Those who had planned for departure on same day completed all the procedure and bid adieu for their respective places and those who didn’t have any plan, hired bike and embedded in goan crowd, people like me ran for sports authority swimming pool nearby and floated till sun sank behind blue sea, a perfect way to end a trek, isn’t it??. Certifications for participation were presented at campfire event. Most of us left for our destination following day completing all the procedures.

Final outline from my personal experience made me to consider goa as my all time favorite holiday destination, a place that made us to forget all those 8 days of outside world, a symbol of relaxation, bountiful greenery and ever enjoying crowd all over the land and sea.