Born out of
a never ending drift
Continued
even today wide and swift
Standing
tall with blanket of crystal white
Crisp or
cold based on only source of light
Hordes of
cloud running around in fear
But cradle
of stream all through the year
Incessant eye
candy for nature admirers
Decisive
quest for ramblers & mountaineers
Hey
Himalayas……….
You persist
irrefutable retaliator of man ego
You are the
souring truth enduring retro
Himalayas, the Roof of the world,
abode of snow, gods, birth place of most important rivers in the world
(Indus,
ganga, Brahmaputra), symbol of highness, short temper, almighty,
perennial
source of water to about 600 million humans and countless type of fauna
and
flora, home place for highest peaks in the planet and mountaineers
ultimate
paradise. Being spread as long as the eye reaches, covering 7 countries
with extreme variation in altitude, vegetation, ruggedness. Himalayas
have
always gained respect from all the earlier civilizations if all the
yugas.
This
travelogue takes you to insight of my 11 day trekking expedition to SAR
PASS,
Parvati Valley, Shivalik Range, The Himalayas. YHAI organizes this trek
in the month of May and June for which booking has to be done as early
as
January. This is one of the difficult treks organized by YHAI and famous
one
too. As the trek begins in month of holiday season, its suggested to
book all
your to and fro journey tickets accordingly well in advance.
My
journey to base camp started from MH-12,. The route in which I had taken
lots
of dependencies and interlinks. Due to unavailability of direct train
tickets,
I was forced to take alternate route through Mumbai and reach Delhi.
(PUNE>>DADAR>>BANDRA>>NZM>>NEW DELHI>>RAJIV
CHOWK>>MANDI HOUSE>>BHUNTAR>>KASOL Base
camp).
Yuva Express was my ride from Mumbai to Delhi. It was
AC-seater train
with cramped seats, limited food options, unregulated AC. Overall it was
truly
uncomfortable journey of total 1366 Kms.
From
Delhi to Himachal, preferred mode of transport were buses operated by
Himachal
govt. HPTDC and HRTC AC Volvo buses ply to Himachal (Manali) everyday
starting from Mandi house, Himachal Bhavan, New Delhi. I had reached
Delhi on
11th of May morning but the Manali bus departure time was at
7.30 PM
in evening. Being in Delhi for first time, thought I would utilize this
time
meaningfully. From Mandi house, I took a stroll aimlessly under heavily
shaded,
well maintained footpaths besides foreign embassies. Few steps further I
came
across Supreme Court . Near one of its gate, direction arrow showed
towards
Supreme Court museum. Until then I never knew supreme court had a museum
open
to public. For the day I was the only person to visit the museum. It was
2
floor building with lots of history related to laws, scriptures, court,
notable
judgments and judges. Lonely and silently roamed around the museum
enjoying the
silence in the middle of the national capital at a VIP place. Moving
ahead, saw
a direction towards India Gate. But direct road to gate was blocked by
police,
forcing me to take alternate route sneaking through garden unaware to
police
and got near to India gate where I could take some snaps. Water gushing
out of
an open pipe made my head cool in Delhi’s heat. Took another semi-circle
and
landed at RajPath, a place where republic day parade happens every
year.
As it was weekend, the spot was crowded with tourists and considerable
police
security.
Back at
mandi house, travelers and trekkers started boarding their buses to HP.
It was
a long night journey with downpour starting from Delhi. At mid night,
bus was
in HP, running on curvy routes under rainy conditions. By morning all we
could
see was a land locked place, narrow roads, tight turns, gorges, lakes,
streams
and people vomiting in bus.
In order
to reach Kasol, we have to get down at Bhuntar, 53 kms short to Manali
and
35kms from Kasol. From Bhuntar there are lots of local buses to kasol.
It was
again narrow and bumpy road with streams and gorges. 12th
May,
weather had not been kind, was full cloudy and drizzling. In bus I got
to see
other trekkers of same batch. They all were mostly from GJ, MH, KA, RJ.
When we
got down at base camp just at entrance of kasol at around 11am, it was
chilling
cold, cloudy, raining and silence. Under rain, all reporting formalities
were
finished with some difficulty in getting medical certificates which I
hadn’t
bought. There are clinics in kasol where we can get medical
certificates
from. As my reporting date was 12th, our batch number
assigned was
SP-12. Left out Breakfast in the morning was kept near food area. Food
being
always the first priority made me to grab whatever was there leaving
nothing
for others, but they were forced to settle for tea.
 |
| Base Camp-Kasol |
Day 1:
Hot Pool (6500 Ft.)
Base camp is composed of about
14 tents for
trekkers and permanent toilet and bathing facility buildings. Parvati
river
flows in tangent to the camp which is fully surrounded by valleys laden
with
tall pine trees. In one section of the view we could see a snow clad
mountain,
also a center of attraction. Like me, those who will be first time to
Himalayas, are sure to stare at that mountain a bit longer. Water out of
tap is
24/7 completely cold. I guess on day one nobody dared to have a bath,
risking hypothermia. But it doesn’t mean that nobody had bath on that
day.
There are
hell lots of contrasts in nature. A large desert can have oasis in the
middle,
just on slopes of volcanic vents in side deep sea there can be new form
of
life, added to this there can be hot water spring just below snowy
mountain.
Freezing water getting converted into boiling water at the expense of
nothing
but nature’s twist. Yes, Manikaran is one such place in India where we
could
see water coming out of earth in boiling form in such an environment
where it’s
too cool to expose body for too long. Me and other batch mates packed
some
clothes and boarded the bus to manikaran just 5 kms from kasol. I had no
idea
how hot water spring would look like and how much hot it would be.
Manikaran has
a gurudwara, a worship place for Sikhs. Hot water streams emerges
around
gurudwara and joins Parvati river. Some part of the hot water is
diverted
towards pools inside and outside of gurudwara where visitors and
pilgrims can
have bath. The hot water in pool is alteast 70 deg. There is constant
supply of
cold water to pool to neutralize very hot water. The hot water stream
inside
temple and gurudwara was so hot that people were boiling potatoes and
rice.
It’s believed that those who visit this place they needn’t visit kashi.
After
having pleasurable experience in pool, had food at langer in
gurudwara,
spent some time in market and returned back to base camp.
 |
| Hot Pool in Manikaran |
Kasol as
a place is a cool lazy town with all kinds of shops. There are more
Israeli
tourists than local Indians plus lot of food varieties in hotels. As
there is
only one ATM, that too was defunct, its advised to carry money in terms
of
cash. One astounding thing about kasol is that we can find marijuana or
hemp
grown in open farms. Although use of it in public is offence, it’s very
peculiar to see those weeds grown in open farm and also beside
streets.
 |
| Hemp |
Back in
the base camp, everything falls in to place. Food at mentioned time,
campfire,
lights off at 10PM. Different varieties of food will be served
everyday(pure
veg). Only in base camp variety food is provided but not at higher
camps.
Blankets and Rug-sack were provided, but at higher camps 2 blankets and
one
sleeping bag were given. So, there was no need to carry any personal
sleeping
bag with us.
Day 2: A
walk in the Woods
Organizers or Volunteers were
very particular about
discipline. They would be briefing about next day’s task and timings
every day.
Day 2 routine begins with group exercise in a nearby field followed by
breakfast and also all will be wishing good luck to for the group
leaving for
higher camps on that day.
SP-12
mission that day was to pack Rugsack with blanket and water bottle for
an
acclimatization walk to nearby pine trees, under a thick shade over the
hills.
Just an hour trek positioned us center of nowhere but surrounded by
trees on
slope. Stage was set to introduce ourselves to team. A Group leader,
Deputy GL,
Cultural Leader, Environmental leader were selected unanimously.
 |
| Pine Trees |
Noon
after lunch, orientation session by Field Director. Instructions were
given
related trekking etiquette and experienced tips, do’s and don’ts.
After the
session, again me and some other trekkers had been to manikaran for
free, open,
hot, natural bath. Streams or Hotels are the best places to spend
relaxing time
in Manikaran or Kasol.
Day 3:
Bird Watching and Shameless Puke
After early morning exercise
and send off of batch
going to higher camp, our mission was to attend rappelling session in
nearby
woods. A steep 20-35 feet rock was to be our action center. More than
learning
basics of rappelling, all were busy smiling for photos while descending.
Once
my rappelling action was done, I joined my tent mates in a nearby stream
where
they were lazing under tree shade. Location was a perfect place to spend
some
time peacefully, listening to streams, birds chirping, feeling cold
breeze,
grasping greenery in eyes, breathing fresh air, experiencing freshness
in
yourself physically and mentally, out of the clutches of city life and
blending
with nature. River based and tree birds were spotted flying to and fro
from
their hideouts.
 |
| Stream |
 |
| Scarlet Minivet |
In first
3 days of my stay in the camp, I observed my batch mates complaining of
indigestion and uncomfortable feeling or feverish and I was one among
them. I
even saw 2-3 campers puking while campfire was ON. I couldn’t pin point
the
reason for it nor does other campers. As rock climbing was canceled, me
and
other teammates proceeded with our casual manikaran hot bath plan and
returned
to kasol in the evening. But uncomfortable feeling still persisted even
after
returning back to kasol. Assuming soda would give some heavenly relief,
took a
bottle and started taking it peg by peg on the streets of kasol. At one
point,
I realized that I would puke in any moment, but the kasol streets
offered no
such place for misdemeanor. Unable to walk even a step forward and
kicking
force inside stomach and desperate eyes searching for a corner made me
to run
and puke in a cardboard dustbin just beside a shop on an open street.
Not sure
who all had a fun time thinking me to be a drunkard and overdosed. After
deep
introspection, overall, analysis, observation, previous experiences the
culprit
was narrowed down to “rice”. The type of rice served in camp was found
out to
be difficult to digest variety. Finally, as the source of problem was
identified, I avoided all dishes related to rice in all the camps for
rest of
the days. Health is the utmost priority for an person who is into
adventure,
without it , there isn’t anything called excitement. From then on I had
healthy
days for rest of the trek.
Day 4: To
the Mountains (8800 ft)
Unwanted luggage were
deposited, packed food,
filled in water bottles, power packed cameras, carried necessary things
in a
rug sacks that would support our next 6 days mission and made sure that
weight
of the Rugsack not to cross more than 10 Kg. Overall, stage to launch
SP-12
batch was ready and all developed a sense of pride in what they were
going to
achieve for next 6 days. Ultimately, total strength of the team was
found out
to be 51 enthusiastic trekkers. Getting good luck wishes from other
teams and
volunteers, SP-12 was flagged off to higher camps for successful trek
and safe
return.
In the
first leg of the journey, we took a public transport from base camp to a
place
called Uch dhar, a place from where our actual trek would start.
Bus got
heavily packed at basecamp with trekkers and local people. With lots of
difficulty,
I got a seat but on bonnet beside driver, having a clear view of tight
turns,
villages on the way and road ahead. These roads had hills on one side
and steep
gorge towards a river on another but without guard railings. Driving in
these
roads must be skill mastered over years. At one particular point, driver
took a
turn in such a way that I felt like he was purposefully taking bus to
the
edge and beyond, at the end moment within few centimeters he changed his
mind ,
took bus to road again. Internally I was screaming for my life,
shaking my
head in disbelief and assumed driver cheated death and that of all the
passengers. Except me and another trekker beside me, nobody else got to
know
how lucky we were to be alive.
 |
| View from Uch Dhar |
After an
hour of drive from base camp, we reached Uch Dhar. Clear weather, fresh
warm
air, scenic spot made good omen for our voyage. There were some locals
selling
sticks that can be used for balancing over rough terrain. I preferred to
believe my legs capability of handling 80 Kg + Rugsack for next 6 days.
First few
hours of the trek till lunch took us through ups and downs of green
valley and a village ahead of it. Most of the times we were walking on a
village mud road rather than trekking on uneven terrain. By now we were
getting
glimpse of some more ice cladded mountains around. Around 12 PM, the
full batch
had reached lunch point. Locals were selling omelets, Maggi, and packed
juices.
Prices of these items get costlier as we move from one higher camps to
other.
After
enough rest, team started moving slowly beside abandoned Prabati
Hydroelectric
project. This project had stalled due to poor geological strata of the
area as
well as dispute with civil and tunnel boring contractor. Never
before seen huge unique tunneling machines and equipment’s were
abandoned
and immovable near the site. This spot reminded me of a Hollywood movie
set
where virus epidemic results in evacuation of whole city and the rest
remaining
would be machines. Beside the road is a small stream coming out of
tunnel and
streams joining from the woody hills above. Wish I would walk hours on
such a
path escorted by streams, shade, warm air, silence and leveled mud
ground.
At 4 PM
we reached Galgi Thatch camp, tented beside a river for
which
there is a big metal bridge over it and a waterfall hidden from general
view.
Within few minutes of accommodating tent, me and other bird watchers
took a
spot beside river. We were able to spot and photograph good number of
birds
from close range.
Here Camp
Leader’s only rule was simple. To promise him that, “everybody enjoys
and be
happy”. None had any reasons to refuse him.
 |
| Yellow beaked blue magpie |
 |
| Plumbeous water redstart |
 |
| White capped water redstart |
Day 5:
Gardenia (9100 Ft)
By 10 AM, team was ready to
march ahead with all
gears, food and water filled. From this camp onwards, its ascending
route till
day 8. Uneven path surrounded by big thick pine trees, dark shade, cool
breeze, twisted turns, huge rocks in between, elusive birds chirping
around,
glimpse of snow covered mountains through patchy areas and the most eye
catching,
bountifully spread around beauties were flowers of various kinds.
Himachal
Pradesh, the land of abundant beauty, least urbanized state in nation,
second
least corrupt state, fruit bowl of the country, home to 1200 birds and
359
animal species and might be future flower basket of the nation. In the
whole of
the expedition, I got to see many never before seen wide varieties of
flowers
with varying colors and abundance, spread throughout the valley. Flowers
captivated me and my lens throughout the trek route until camp Khora
Thatch. By the time everyone reached camp, it was cloudy and
cold. Camp is pitched in a kind of landlocked place with one side a tall
green
hill and another side steep slope. The only source of water for
everything was
through pipe connected to melting ice from a faraway place.
Within few minutes of reaching camp, there my bird watching routine started with my tent mates. All I could spot were eagles at a faraway place, saw one monal but couldn’t get a shot. Camp leader alerted to batch about bears in the locality and a recent incident of bear attacking locals.
 |
| View from Khora Thatch |
 |
| Big Tit |
As the camp was in landlocked location, we couldn’t do much roaming around. All the higher camps in the SAR PASS trek are void of electricity supply. So, dinner would be served at 6.30 PM before it’s too dark. This new routine made us early birds to bed for deep sleep. Unnecessary roaming around night time was prohibited, if so, it shouldn’t be alone.
Day 6:
ICE wars (11000 Ft)
After breakfast, packed lunch
and briefing by camp
leader, it was time to take leave from camp at 10 AM. As the next higher
camp
was very near, we were advised to spend as much time in between as
possible and
not to hurry. Day 6 also followed the same pattern of terrain as we saw a
day
before, added to it some flowers to my list. I am highly illiterate in
recognizing flowers I shot. So, kindly co-operate with photos alone.
For
people who will be touching natural Ice for first time, the feeling or
anticipation
can be compared to an astronaut on another planet holding a specimen
nowhere to
be found on earth. At lunch point, trekkers scattered around under shady
spots.
Some started playing cards, few taking nap and the rest unsure of what
to do.
At that time, I spotted a white patch on ground covered with tree
leaves. I got
near to it and kicked, touched to confirm it to be snow.
Soon
others found it out and automatically snow balls were seen in their
hands and
thrown at all 8 directions or towards someone. This skirmish from snow
balls
turned out to outbreak of total Ice war soon after lunch. Group near ice
chunks
‘offenders’ started attacking ‘card gang’ on other side which was void
of
any ammunition. ‘Card gang’ defenders smuggled some big Ice chunks and
started
attacking ‘offenders’. Another ‘Small group’ of 6-7 enjoying the action
suddenly became target of ‘offenders’ and ‘card gang’ turning the whole
situation to triangular war. ‘small group’ was heavily shelled from
strategically positioned ‘card gang’ and heavily armed ‘offenders’.
Meanwhile,
me watching this free entertainment from safer side, suddenly started
facing
2-3 shells at end. By that time peace agreement between ‘card gang’,
‘small
group’ and ‘offenders’ placed ice wars to halt.
Leaving
battle ground for good, team moved on through woods to reach a camp Zirmi
thatch located near by a green pasture surrounded by valley
laden with
frozen waterfall on one side and panoramic view on the other side. From Zirmi
thatch onwards density of trees and shrubs were to reduce and
increase
in green pastures were to be seen. These green pastures around offered a
comfortable place to sit and stare at faraway snow clad mountain,
cattles
grazing and feel cold breeze. Custard given at dinner was a luxury.
 |
| Little Birdie's ground nest |
 |
| View from Zirmi Thatch |
By now
battery power in most of the trekkers camera had almost depleted. Local
guy
there for some nominal amount took the responsibility of charging camera
and
mobile batteries in a nearby village and returned to camp by morning
before we
left. Here comes the advantage of AA battery cameras. I had charged my
camera
battery a day before I left base camp. Even then on 6th day,
battery
level showed full after taking about 400+ photos.
Day 7:
Snow Trek (12500 ft)
Physical and health
complications had taken toll on
few trekkers. Some felt unwell due to change in altitude and food or
might be
because of water. Out of 51, due to unknown reasons, one called it quit.
No
matter who ever tried to motivate him, he couldn’t change his mind to
proceed.
50
trekkers left Zirmi thatch under bright sunny day with
clear blue
sky. Few hours of trek was on green landscape, pastures with decrease in
tree
cover, latter part of the trek till lunch point was through flowery
hills with
snowy patches every now and then. Chances of getting tree shade was
almost nil
till last day.
Again an Ice war broke out between 2 groups, forcing myself to join. Here surplus snow made easy to acquire ammunition. Making ice shells out of crispy ice resulted in numb fingers. Short lived ice war ended without proper decisive victory on either sides.
From
lunch point onwards till next day evening, our foot was on snow, trek on
snow,
eyes see Ice, rest on ice, over all it white desert everywhere. During
middle
of the day, trekking on snow found out to be bit difficult. Melting snow
creates a thin film of water under shoe sole when we step on it there by
reducing the grip.
In case
if shoe is not water proof, then ice crystals melt over shoe making it
wet and
hard to dry in that condition. This part of the trek gives an eagle eye
view of
all the mountains in the region. View includes green hills, pine trees
mountains, rugged terrain and mountains, complete snow-clad mountains,
icy slopes and a clear blue sky embedded with eagles. Pace of the group
got
slow as many had difficulty in in trekking this terrain for first time.
We
could see Tila Lotni camp leader waiting for our arrival
from far
away distance.
Every
step on the snow kicked a pain in my cold wet shoes. To avoid slipping,
carefully chosen each step on snow lead us to spot where camp leader was
waiting.
A 2700
view from this point cannot be explained in words or no matter in
whatever the way I try to describe. To the north lies bright snow clad
mountain
where sun rays illuminated it like a 1GW bulb right in front of you. Far
east
and south, side by side rugged snow mountains below blue sky also
illuminated
by golden gleams.
 |
| Towards Tila Lotni |
 |
| View-SAR PASS |
Day 8:
Epicenter (13800 ft to 11000ft)
Perhaps there isn’t any
civilization not mesmerized
by night sky embedded with innumerable heavenly objects. This curious
task of
star gazing magnifies if we see them in an isolated place, far from any
unwanted light pollution.
Before we
slept on day 7, we were informed to wake up very early and be ready as
early as
4:30AM. Fortunately biological clock in me made me to woke up at 2:30AM
even
before electronic alarm woke me up. Temperature outside tent was
freezing cold
and eerie silence. I could see some few people already getting ready or
standing still like zombies. A small peek at night sky made me to say a
looong
WoooooW. I had never seen such numbers of stars in any part of my life
before
and I guess nobody from the batch had seen so before. One could actually
see a
segment of Milkyway from north to south. The most fabulous moonless sky
still
illuminating icy ground below. Due to very low temperature, ice on
ground had
become rock hard and easy to walk. We were supposed to trek on this rock
hard
ice and reach SAR PASS before it thaws under sun’s heat.
At
5.30AM, SP-12 got ready for “No easy Day”, but half hour behind
schedule. Even
before we started taking first step, sunlight sneaked through rugged
east. Few minutes on to slope towards west, we could see magnificent
sunrise behind one of the peaks again glorifying icy mountains around.
 |
| Morning View |
Morning
view with steep climb, cold air was different from what I had seen in
the
evening before. Excellent grip from my shoe on hard ice propelled me to a
peak
with a flag post. From then onwards I would say it’s easy trek on a
leveled
mountain top. Half of my batch mates were too exhausted within an hour
of trek,
delaying progress as the sun ascents. Guides and Sherpa’s assigned to
our batch
were feeling uneasy due to slow pace of the team. Those who had reached
the
flag, proceeded further with me being ahead for first time in the trek.
From
start of the 8th day trek, my shoes were still wet and
uncomfortable
at my toes. Tired but can’t sit on snow, can’t remove sunglasses and hat
else
face free sunburn and UV rays. 360 deg nothing but ice around us.
In some
places, trekking seemed to be a big waste of time and energy. So
solution was
simple and effective. Slide over snow as far as one can over the slope.
There
were 2 sliding points for day-8 trek. Slide 1 covers a short distance
whereas
slide 2 covers almost a big mountain slope.
At slide
1, I was the first one to show how it goes. About 25 mtrs it was
smooth,
suddenly there was a patch of iceless barren ground that practically
slogged my
back. This lethal patch wasn’t visible from the top. Somehow I managed
to reach
level ground with wet and muddy pants. Warned by me others took
alternate route
and reached safe.
After
this slide, we were at the epicenter of whole expedition-SAR PASS. The
path
ahead was about 2 football field big and a lake formed out of melting
ice on
one side. It’s a white desert surrounded by valleys and tall mountain
peak.
Sunlight was getting totally reflected from ice making it harder to see
around
without sunglasses and sunburn was evident. A slow trek on desert
positioned us
near a break point where a local guy had a small kitchen for cooking.
Others
were painfully slow for slide 2 or still enjoying slide 1.
 |
| "Brownie" -part of the team from day 4 till last day, enjoyed every moment with us. Never seen such a tough dog which survived cold nights in camps, provided with limited food. |
Finally
about half an hour later the whole group was at break point taking their
own
sweet time for taking rest and refueling themselves for next one hour
more.
Till team got ready, all I could do is see the spectacle around, take as
much
photos as possible and feel the isolation in a place surrounded by
nothing but
ice which I am void of it in everyday life.
 |
| Break point at SAR PASS |
At 1 PM,
team felt they should start moving and got back to track. But by now
ground had
thawed, making trek difficult due to weak grip. Every step taken has to
be made
by ourselves by kicking snow for a good grip horizontal to huge slope.
It
wasn’t easier said than done. Guides and Sherpa were making sure nobody
slipped
and slide uncontrollably. Fortunately, nobody did. A long and lengthy
horizontal trek on ice positioned us below another flag point. This part
of
climb was very steep and slippery. A rope tied on top found to be very
helpful
in climbing ahead till we reached launch pad point for slide 2.
From
start to till end of slide 2 in distance wise its about 500 mtrs or
more.
Fortunately or unfortunately again I was the first prototype to be
tested. This slide was extremely huge compared to slide 1 and very
steep. Looking
at the slope below, slight fear started making me to assume what if I
couldn’t
control and keep on sliding till I hit something hard, what if I tumble
and
injure, what if my clothes tear. . . without pondering much over it, I
self-launched on a rough crisp steep snow for the unexpected. Drag was
fierce,
snow was rough and thawed, slide wasn’t smooth, ice etched out of shoes
hit my
face, bag was another drag from behind, coat and t shirt gave up filling
my
back with snow and causing drag on bare skin. Finally the painful
descent got
slower from which I could get control from then. All this happened
within a
minute or so and that too this was just first part of the slide. Later I
realized I shouldn’t have had been prototype by launching myself first.
Still
the slide wasn’t over, there were about 3 tandem slides further which
were
bumpy and controllable. Sliding ahead I couldn’t really see what lies
ahead of
me or how steep the slope is. Without any reference point, it was just a
blind
slide over snow.
 |
| Slide-2 |
At least
I reached rest point with my shoe fully soaked, pants wet and pain from
drag. As
I look back, I could see trekkers sliding one by one and wondered how
it was possible to cover such a large distance within few minutes just
by
sliding. Too tired and too wet, slept off at rest point until everyone
reached,
after an hour or so. This slide was one of the reason for some to take
this
expedition. All faces were happy on this accomplishment and they would
talk on
this till end of the day. At 3 PM, after enough rest and refueling,
SP-12 was
back on track through wet ice and slippery mud descending to reach Biskeri
Thatch. A warm welcome by camp leader rejuvenated us a bit after
a
lengthy tiring 12 Hour trek. A trek started at 5.30 AM and ended in
evening at 5.30PM at a camp located beside a green meadow and pastures.
Day 9:
Meadows - A slice of Switzerland
Amid warning by Field Director
and camp leader on
snow blindness, few didn’t care for using sunglasses, resulting in eye
pain and
irritation. Eye drops were available but, it would have been better if
they had
taken precautions than curing. Trek from this camp onwards is complete
descent
through woods and green valleys, where we could see horses, cattle and
sheep
grazing or taking a nap.
Basics of rappelling were now
to be used in
one of the spots while climbing down a steep rocky slope just beside a
stream
which had a low lying wooden bridge leading to lunch point. To say
something
about food at higher camps, a saying goes like this “Jungle me BAALU,
Khaane me
ALOO”. So for lunch dinner and breakfast, mostly we were munching on
aloo, gobi
or cabbage dishes with puri or roti. Trekkers would flock on to canteens
set up
by locals for a much needed change.
 |
| Green Meadows |
Just few minutes after the
lunch point was the most
beautiful meadows, lush green grass, open space, tall tress sparsely
spread,
green reflection wherever our eye could stare around. Felt like as if we
suddenly entered any royal garden or romantic song shooting location.
Before
this I had seen this kind of meadows only in wallpapers and in media.
A short
trek in thick jungle from then onwards led us to last and the most
fabulous
camp if the whole trek- Bandhak Thatch. A picture perfect
spot
with green hills, surrounded by tall pine trees with background of
snow-clad
mountains under clear blue sky. Sheep’s on grassland would resemble
like
moving white dots. Serially pitched white tents on green lawn gave an
addictive
ambience that no other resort would give anywhere. At one point It made
me to
think does this nation has this kind of nature even with human
intervention. Bandhak
thatch completely mesmerized all the trekkers with an inerasable
memories for lifetime I believe.
 |
| Bhandak Thatch camp |
Few
hundred meters away from thatch at the edge, a tandem waterfall was
hidden away
from general view. One of the shepard carrying gun said chances of
finding wild
bear is almost certain on the other side of the waterfall. Camp leader
was one
whom I had seen in Nandaran camp in Goa National Trekking
expedition-2012
and I was glad to see him again rendering his service to YHAI. Tried
spending
as much time as possible on grassland, watching mountains and
amalgamation of blue sky with green land.
As it was
last night of the expedition, many were busy preparing programs for
campfire
and exchanging contacts. Campfire events were funnier than campfires of
last 6
days. Almost all participated under clear night sky. Too tired for
further
events, I slowly slipped inside tent for deep sleep.
Day 10:
Disarray and Depart
Camp leader had promised there
would be something
special for breakfast other than aloo stuff. Offcourse, anything out of
aloo
would have to be luxury there. Noodles brightened out the day brining
much joy
to all trekkers making them to stand for round 2 and 3.
 |
| Bandhak Thatch- Morning view |
Due to
illusion by sun rays, there are 2 faces of Bandhak thatch. Evening scene
was
different from the scene that I saw in morning. Group Leader and Deputy
group
leader had prepared Plan A and B on how to reach basecamp once we are up
to bus
stand in Barshaini. From Bandhak thatch its fast descent
through
woods with little or no rest in between. Slowly we came across
farmlands,
villages and hydroelectric dam project reminding us that we were back to
man-made civilization. As per information from reliable sources, bus was
supposed to be in bus stand at 12 PM. Unfortunately it didn’t turn up
even
after waiting for an hour till 1 PM. Taxis there were offering lifts at
high
rates. Moreover my return journey back to pune was to take place on same
day in
the evening at 6:30 PM from Bhuntar.
Me and other 2 trekkers with
still some more energy
left out for action(one of them out going camp leader) preferred to trek
on
road rather than waiting for any transport and started a 15 km trek to
manikaran. Half an hour in to trek, we got a tempo that dropped us till
manikaran saving my precious time lot. Still running short of time the
bus from
manikaran to kasol got stuck in traffic near one of the tight turn in
manikaran
further delaying my plans. By the time I reached kasol, time was around
3.30PM
or so. It wasn’t wise to leave the camp as it is after not having bath
for 6
days. After a painful cold bath, packed up luggage in hurry, completed
document
work, received expedition completion certificate from a volunteer with
congratulations where there were no one to applause. I couldn’t even get
time
to say goodbye to my fellow trekkers whom I had befriended them from day
1.
Luckily I got bus immediately from Kasol to Bhuntar, a 2 hrs ride. At
6:30 PM I
got pre booked HPTDC bus from Bhuntar fruit market bus stand to New
Delhi, Mandi house.
Day 10
was the most hectic day from my personal point of view. Those who
retained
there at base camp might have shared their experiences with other new
batches
and certificate received in glory and even today I still regret for not
having
hot bath at manikaran on last day.
A considerable proportion of
time, money and
personal sacrifices had been made from my side with lots of permutation
and combination for choosing reporting dates, means of travel, train bus
booking
and over all planning this expedition solo. I kindheartedly salute YHAI
for
organizing this expedition without expecting any financial profit in
return and
serving sense of adventure to people all around the nation. I owe a lot
to
volunteer camp leaders of all the camps for looking after our food,
safety and
basic necessities at those altitudes. This trek would not have been
possible
without my superiors lenience in granting me official leaves for the
expedition.
I would
certainly attend this trek once again, might not every year but within
few
years with a heart of admiration towards vastness, pristine natural
beauty of our own Switzerland in its own way.
I
dedicate this blog to breed of people who believe in Ed Viesturs word:
“Mountains
allow you to climb them, you cannot just attack and climb them if they
do not
wish to be climbed”
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